简介
当手柄不能正常运行时，您可能需要更换底部主板。该过程可能涉及到部分需要焊接的操作，您可以参考这个关于电路板焊接的教程。 本指南将向您展示如何取出Xbox One 无线手柄（1708型） 底部主板。
你所需要的
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在上方接缝处插入撬棒，一点点撬开直至手柄底端。
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继续使用撬棒轻轻拆下侧盖板。
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另一侧手柄同理，重复进行上述操作取下侧盖板
Only use a pry tool! The vibration motor wires are exposed and directly accessible from the side when opening. I attempted to open it with a small knife, expecting to be able to gently pry the clips open, accidentally sliced through my right motor’s wires.
Sawyer Coe - 回复
If you have some Guitar picks laying around they work GREAT!
Mike Beane - 回复
For some reason, the two closest hinges at the top of the two handle covers are extremely strong. I had to play around to get them off unlike several guides and video tutorials that, I don't know how, take them off without the slightest effort.
Controller wireless Xbox One Model 1708 -
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撕下或者在中心刺穿电池仓贴标，露出螺丝孔。
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从手柄背面取下五颗9mm torx-9 紧固螺丝
Since mine is out of warranty I just broke out the security nib with a 2.0 standard bit. Then used a T8 torx.
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再次将手柄翻过去，正面朝下，向上取下后面板。
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用胶带固定两侧的震动单元
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这一步是为了防止震动单元掉出
if you replace thumbsticks only, this step is NOT required and it is safer not to remove bottom cover, removing faceplate is sufficient to replace thumbsticks
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将手柄翻过来，正面朝上，轻轻取下方向键即可。
It needs to be made a little clearer that the thin metal retaining ring needs to be unclipped before pulling on the D-pad. A small, flatbladed screwdriver did it nicely for me.
Paul Hough - 回复
As mentioned above, clarification is needed that the metal ring is intended to lay on top of the DPad - you should remove it first when disassembling, and it should be installed after the DPad to hold the DPad down when re-assembling.
Additionally, the DPad is oriented so that the directional button without an extended tab on the end is on the bottom (down).
This step is not necessary if you are removing the top motherboard for replacing the joysticks as the D-pad is part of the bottom motherboard.
In the case of replacing the joysticks (adding in hall effect sensor sticks) I found it useful to desolder all the rumble motor wires before disconnecting top & bottom motherboards. -
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直接向上取下键帽即可
Are the joystick potentiometers soldered to the mother board or just push fit, this guide doesn’t mention soldering so I’m assuming the latter?
Can you get genuine replacement joystick potentiometers as I’ve only seen cheap eBay type ones?
The actual joysticks themselves are soldered into the bottom motherboard.
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将手柄翻过来，背面朝上，从左右两个角分别拧下两枚7mm torx-6螺丝。
What if you don’t care about the rumble motors (always turn that feature off anyway), can I just leave them unattached?
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两只手分别握紧上下两块主板，轻轻拉开即可分开两块主板。
Soldering is not necessary for separation as on the top motherboard it uses a small connector commonly used in wireless assemblies for antennas. Simply pop it of using any prying tool or just your hand but make sure it is the side that has a gold or brassy finish and not a solder joint.
Hey Wyatt,
Thanks for the feedback. I was on the team that authored this guide. I did not work on this specific guide so I am not familiar with this specific connector. I will follow up with iFixIt and check this issue. Thanks for the comment!
Wyatt is correct that the black wire in the center can be removed from the top motherboard, but it doesn’t do any good to do so as there are two other sets of wires (grey and black twisted pairs leading to the left and right trigger) preventing you from removing the bottom motherboard entirely. These wires are visible in the pictures of this guide.
I accidentally broke the part where the black wire connects to. Do I need to buy the top motherboard to fix this problem?
What's is the name of the part for wireless on the controller
In my controller that black cable (the antenna like) was separated form the board is there any way to solder it again (the socket is still conected to plug)
I have the same problem. It popped off the board when firm pressure was applied to reconnect the wire after a repair. I'm going to attempt to apply a small bead of solder to the part that popped off, press it in place, and then heat the connector with my iron. But I am not hopeful at all. It's tight, really tight, and if it works it will be through luck alone.
Any luck? Theres no pad to get the solder to stick to on mine. Im assuming it is the j1 connection. Any idea what this wire is for?
Same issue here. I tried to unplug the antenna connector but the weak solder joints disconnected from the top motherboard instead. Looks like it has couple of bigger solder pads for ground/shielding(?) and one tiny pin in the middle for the actual antenna which can maybe still connect by pushing in place? Looks like a very difficult solder job as everything is so tiny.
Hi i destroy black wire connector on top board please help me.
It’s IPEX 4 connector, i've ordered bunch on chinese site and replaced mine. It was hard but doable.
mntlzr -
mntlzr : Thanks a lot for the connector type. More specifically it seems to be IPEX 4 SMD female socket on the top motherboard.
Hi yellow tape on board what
Looks like thick Kapton tape. Probably meant for electrical insulation and a barrier for the coaxial cable to rest on instead of sitting directly on SMD components (which are under the tape)
How does the black wire reconnect? And is it necessary?
I just put my controller back together (I opened it just to clean all the buttons since my son spilled some juice on it) and it seems to work wirelessly (with a PC using the dongle that came with the controller) even having broken the small black antenna cable connector off from the top motherboard. Not sure what that cable is used for or is it just an additional antenna for better connectivity. At least my controller still seems to work fine wirelessly without that cable being connected even from several meters away from the computer.
Actually nvm. Now that I tried the controller for a second time on the next day it seems to disconnect all the time so wireless is not working properly. I’ll need to try to fix the antenna cable by soldering. Probably will order a replacement connector (IPEX 4 SMD female socket) and try to solder that on.
I think I broke off a little bit of the black antenna. In the zoomed in shot it showed a tiny little piece of wire soldered on the pad with Z2 above it but mine wasn’t stuck onto it. I see a little white (plastic I think) nub on the end of the wire. My controller’s bluetooth range now is only a foot. What do I do? Do I just replace the cable or can I melt away the plastic material and bridge it with solder?
1) TAKE HEED TO THESE WARNINGS AND BE VERY CAREFUL
2) Instead of separating the boards completely all you need is to get enough space to pull the part out.
*WHILE HOLDING WITH BOTH HANDS AS IF YOU WHERE PLAYING AND PUSH THE TOP BOARD FORWARD WITH YOUR THUMBS LIKE A DRAWER AND THEN LIFT UP!
IT WILL SEPARATE JUST ENOUGH TO DO WHAT YOU NEED. *THIS TAKES CARE, FINESSE, & SOME SKILL.
This entire step is asinine. 1: you don't need to completely separate the two boards in order to pull them as a single assembly from the controller. 2: Why the f would you try to get someone to do solder work just to clean up some buttons?
Just got done putting mine back together after cleaning("Y" was sticking). I was able to access all screws without completely desoldering, no broken wires. It wasn't even hard to do. As long as you don't try to force anything, it's easy.
This isn't the first iFixIt guide that has made me go "WTF? You're overcomplicating things!" either. It is a running issue with their guides.
There is a tool designed specifically for that type coaxial connector (UMC extraction tool)
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detai...
However, you can usually safely remove that coaxial cable by hand or with a spludger tool or small flathead screwdriver. The trick is to wedge between the ground fins of the receptacle (longer solder sides of the connector on the PCB) and the coaxial plug/head, pushing off of the ground fin to nudge the plug up and away from the receptacle. The receptacle solder pads can be weak and if you arent careful you can easily break the receptacle and plug off together. Just take your time and use the ground fins to push against so that it holds the receptacle down while lifting the plug up. Might have to pop one side then pop the other side (always using the ground fins as a fulcrum point). -
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将底部主板上的音频端口拆除。
Can you just leave out the audio port and use the controller or u have to have a replacement to play
Why would you *need* the audio port? If you are happy to not use then fine, this is an instructional to get it working and by extension a headset one would assume.
Ali J -
This piece is just placed in there - sandwiched between the two motherboards. No adhesive, no mechanical attachment, nothing.
So can it be replaced or no? I took it out it dont look fried or anything but it still dont work when reinstalled
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从底部主板中心取下三个 70mm torx-6 螺丝。
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从震动马达边上的底部主板上取下两个 70mm torx-6 螺丝。
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从底部主板左侧取下一个 70mm torx-6 螺丝。
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用一个塑料撬棒把塑料卡子从正面卡口上撬下。
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向上滑动塑料卡子以取下该部件。
Reassembly: This hard is hard to mount. Slowly flip the controller upto view the charging port and notice it isn’t aligned yet… If you force it to outside of pcb, it’ll try to pop off. I’ve yet to figure this step out… I forced it and after full reassembly, the bumpers became REALLY stiff.
Solution: Instead remove the outside piece mentioned in image… then remove the bumpers… Check that all cavities are clear. Then make sure the sync button is inserted all the way in… Then place the left bump in the far left hole first. Then ensure the horn part slides into it’s specific slot inside, then ensure the the sync button goes in hole…then continue to right bumper side…. Then add the over cover piece above it… Start with the piece that goes over the charge port. Then the front as the above image shows… Now check your bumpers for easy clicking… If it’s still not correct, remove and try again gently as the horns may snap off and the PCB may get damaged.
Note: I believe the order is very important or the alignments on the left side may have the horn forced into one of the other close cavities and you won’t even know it. (This causes that horn to get damaged over time too. Without the horn, the bumper will drift and miss the button and bind up the trigger.)
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用塑料撬棒松开连在左右肩键上的钩子
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当钩子成功松开后，由于手柄前面板和手柄后部松开，请务必小心。连接/同步按钮（见图2）此时因为面板支撑，此时已经松动。
Watch for the tiny button that sticks out from the top - it’s the wireless connect/sync button. It will fall out and is easy to lose. During reassembly, I found it easier to put the bumper back in first, then use a tweezers to insert the button back into place.
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Just to clarify you don’t need to do any soldering. If you are careful enough with the top mobo and rumble motors the wires should stay connected and you can take out the bottom mobo fairly easily. I saw some youtube videos that imply that you do need to disconnect and solder them back. Not the case!
What is the wire that connects the two motherboards together with the copper adaptor for? When taking mine apart, the wire came loose from that tiny copper piece and is unrepairable. I think it's for the Bluetooth functionality. The wire used looks to have a very tiny wire inside itself surrounded with what looks to be ground wire. It's the black one in the middle.
It will clip back into place if you align it properly.its similar to the antenna clip of motherboard in a iPhone 4 you don’t need to solder it just lift and be careful when reattaching it don’t force it if it bends you are screwed. But when lined up right minimal pressure will snap back into place.
I’ve tried many different angles and pressures to get that thing back in, the pin doesn’t look bent but it just won’t go back in.
It looks like I'm not alone with broken RF connector case. Maybe someone had a success in repairing?
First need to find out the actual name of this connector type.
I think it's IPEX gen. 4 (MHF4), seems a fairly rare format.
IPEX gen. 1 (MHF) is much more widely spread, for example, in laptop network adapters, but it’s bigger.
Does anyone know if a motherboard from a different gen controller is compatible with the 1708 model or any at all? Like are they interchangeable or would i have to stick with that model specifically?
After replacing the mainboard the controller doesn’t turn on with batteries nor by USB. Any Idea what did I did wrong?
The antenna connector on the board purchased from here will not connect to the other board…
I just bought a replacement board and installed it with these instructions. I made sure not to let any connections become severed and put everything back together just like before. Every input was working properly, including the sync button (which triggered this replacement in the first place). However, for some unknown reason, the controller now drains one of every pair of batteries put into it in less than 12 hours. I opened it back up and saw nothing indicating a short circuit. What could be going wrong?
I have a 1708 controller in Fortnite purple. The view button is INOP. I’ve seen many forums where people have the same problem and it seems to be very common. Does anyone actually know the cause..? What’s required to fix it? Please help.
