简介
使用此指南安全地取下并更換Steam Deck LCD中磨損或失效的電池。
為了您的安全，請打開您的Steam Deck並在開始此過程之前允許電池完全放電。 充電的鋰聚合物電池如果意外刺穿可能非常危險。 加熱充電的電池是火災隱患。 如何處理鼓脹電池？如果您的電池看起來鼓脹或腫脹，請採取額外的預防措施。
注意： Steam Deck的電池黏性很強，需要多次加熱和撬動。iOpener產生的熱量可能不足以鬆動膠粘劑，因此建議使用熱風槍（或替代品，如吹風機）進行此過程。
請記住：在維修設備時，請遵循一般的靜電放電（ESD）安全程序
在取下電池後不要再使用它，因為這可能存在安全隱患。用新電池替換它。
注意： Valve在2023年初開始發貨帶有更新內部設計的Steam Deck LCD。您的Steam Deck可能與照片中所示不同，但程序非常相似。取下後蓋的指南以檢查您的版本。原始的Steam Deck將具有金屬主板盾和具有方形邊的風扇，如此處所見。更新後的Steam Deck將具有黑色主板盾和具有曲線邊的風扇，如此處所見。在此處查找Steam Deck OLED指南。
你所需要的
视频概述
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在这个步骤中使用的工具：Tweezers$4.99
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使用镊子掀开这片金属贴纸，露出防护板上的螺丝。
Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.
If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.
Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.
You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air
I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...
wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?
If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?
I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?
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用十字螺丝刀拧下三个固定防护板的螺丝：
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一个3.4毫米螺丝
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两个3.7毫米螺丝
The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.
Any updates? Did they let you RMA?
I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D
Andy HL -
I'm stuck in the same place. I haven't fully stripped it, but I can tell you that if I try and make it budge it will strip. The thing is massively overtightened. The driver fit fine, the metal just gives way before the screw will budge.
I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.
I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.
What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?
if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?
have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck
briaNN -
button Not key, i’m sorry
FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.
For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.
Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.
Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.
Simon M. -
There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.
I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?
Hi, is it possible to buy these shields somewhere? I am extremely interested in buying a replacement.
Yannick B. - 回复
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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把防护板拿走吧。
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.
Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?
Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro
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捏住电池插头上的小把手，平行于主板向外拉，确保电池完全断开。
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你也可以用一根撬棒的平头或是指甲来轻轻将电池插头推出插座，然后用手将插头拉出使电池完全断开。
After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!
Awesome thanks for this tip!
It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.
This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...
This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.
Victor -
I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.
Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).
skzm -
I second this approach. For me, the cable felt way to flimsy and the connector wouldn't budge even under moderate force. Except I used the flat end of a spudger to "scrape" it out.
Misza -
Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.
When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable
This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.
Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?
Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.
Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.
I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.
Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.
This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently
I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?
What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!
Nick Hight - 回复
Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.
To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.
Does it have to be a clean fingernail?
I disagree with the order here: I think the battery should be disconnected right after step 4. You can do that before touching anything else by gently pulling the pull tab to the right.
If all you want to do is to disconnect and reconnect your battery (because your Steam Deck is not booting up... again...) then with a bit of finesse, luck and a flat plastic tool you can even push it back in without removing the shield. Make sure it went all the way back in.
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在这个步骤中使用的工具：Plastic Cards$2.99
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將塑膠片從短邊中間剪開
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將尖銳的四角剪成1/4圓，以免塑膠片尖角刺破電池
Start with more cards than you think you'll need! I shattered one of the cut cards while cutting adhesive that wasn't quite hot enough (my battery was puffy, so I was afraid to heat it more than absolutely necessary). Also, REMOVE THE CARDS before reheating. They melt.
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使用熱風槍對電池加熱一到兩分鐘，以軟化電池膠
Warning, be very careful with the heat gun or you can damage other components such as the left trigger or screen underneath. I would love to see that warning added to the the guide. Especially if you're having a hard time to get the glue to soften at all. Because you can easily cause heat damage without meaning to
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將一片剪開的塑膠拆機片拆入電池右下角
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將塑膠片慢慢插入，劃開電池膠
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將電池移除
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使用無絨布沾點酒精(>90%)將電池殘膠清除。不要使用過多液體，避免讓液體滲漏到機身上的切口。
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將新電池下電池膠保護片一角的撕開，貼在對應舊電池的地方
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將剩下的保護片撕開並用力按壓固定好電池
Anleitung ist TOP. 3/4 Stunde zum Austausch gebraucht.
M Hagemann - 回复
¿Is it possible to place a steam deck OLED battery on a common steam deck or is it bigger and doesnt fit?
Iñigo Vera - 回复
The Steam Deck LCD and Steam Deck OLED batteries are different sizes and unfortunately incompatible.
I only got one of the adhesive strips (the longer one) in my replacement kit. The smaller strip is missing from the box in which you find the battery + adhesives :(
Oh no! Reach out to our customer support and they'll get you sorted. Happy fixing!
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要重新駔裝你的裝置，請倒序觀看此指南
請將你的電子垃圾帶到R2或e- steward認證的回收商.
拆解不如預期?basic troubleshooting，或者到Steam Deck 問題論壇 尋求幫助.
要重新駔裝你的裝置，請倒序觀看此指南
請將你的電子垃圾帶到R2或e- steward認證的回收商.
拆解不如預期?basic troubleshooting，或者到Steam Deck 問題論壇 尋求幫助.
42等其他人完成本指南。
14指南评论
Is it safe to apply small amounts of >90% isopropyl alcohol under the battery to loosen the adhesive bond? Or would that drip into the screen or other components and potentially cause damage?
Your mileage may vary. Isopropyl alcohol may be an effective method to loosen the adhesive, but you run the risk of excess leaking onto or into the display or other components, due to the cutouts on the battery tray. Your second sentence is spot-on, hence the recommendation to carefully use heat instead.
Why couldn’t they of used pull tabs for the adhesive so this process would not be so difficult and tedious. It would also be less risk of over heating the battery/steam deck or puncturing the battery. This is really the only design choice I can criticize of the steam deck. Pull tabs would of made this a repair the average person could achieve.
I feel like patience is everything in this scenario I mean. Just take your time and relax & it will all be ok ! When dealing with particular situations like this just take you're time simple as that I promise. Especially, since Ifixit.com has some of the best guides EVER!!
It seems crazy to me that they made this process so difficult, surely battery is one of (if not THE) most common things that you'll need to eventually replace? I suppose they must have been limited by what they could achieve?
Having just done a Battery Replacement on the Steam Deck the amount of adhesive is a bit high the use of Pull Tabs would have been wonderful. Thanks iFixit and Valve for making the process easier.
I have a question if battery health is a 22%. Will a new battery fix it or is there something wrong with the board.
Most probably battery replacement will fix it. Especially if you really see short battery time and you could observe that it shrink after heavy using of Steam Deck.
However, it's possible that it's some false error, so if battery works fine for you, I wouldn't bother. Also, if battery health dropped quickly, it might indicate overheating
Why they made this so difficult? We are in 2023, this device uses a very small battery in my opinion, it should be more or lesse the double of current size, and it's very difficult to replace it.
10/10 not too bad a job at all.
For me I found the original adhesive was to the left and right of the gaps you jam the cards in, so going in diagonally was the way to do it easily.
Only used a heat gun for 2 minutes and was eventually successful with gentle prying.
Everything was as expected.
Directions that come with the new battery direct to charge to 100% and leave on charge for 2h, then fully discharge until off, finally charge once more to 100%.
The adhesive definitely fought valiantly, but in the end I was victorious after a little bit of patience and my trusty heat gun. Not gonna lie, I was getting a little frustrated, but it was all worth it in the end. Everything else was a breeze, and I now finally get to use my Steam Deck which had just been sitting there as a paperweight since the first batch got sent out. Huzzah!
Avant de commencer le tutoriel, j'avoue que je craignais de ne plus avoir de SteamDeck à la fin ! Mais finalement les étapes sont très bien expliquées, et avec un peu de patience et de soin, tout se passe plutôt bien. L'étape du décollage de la batterie prend un peu de temps, mais au final, ça s'est fait plus rapidement que je ne le pensais. Mission totalement réussie pour moi :) Longue vie au Steamdeck....
Would applying warm heat via a heating pad to the front side of the device help loosen the battery adhesive for easier removal?
Given that the Steam Deck regularly reaches an internal temp of ~85C under heavy loads (and probably higher temperatures during manufacturing), it would seem reasonable that a not-scalding heating pad could safely radiate enough heat through the screen, and preheat the adhesive through the internals to making it easier to work with. This approach wouldn't risk damaging the screen or its components in any way, would it?
Has this been tested or ruled out? It seems a gentler alternative to primarily using a heat gun to "heat on, apply directly to the battery."
The screen and midframe do a surprisingly good job of sinking heat away from the battery adhesive. Also, directly heating the display softens the display adhesive, possibly in places or at times when you wouldn't want it to. A mix of both is certainly more effective — but most users don't have access to a heat pad. Plus, the joysticks protrude, requiring a very specific size of heat pad.
If your Steam Deck won't charge or turn on, you might need to disconnect your battery and then plug it back in.
I thought my battery had gone completely dead but when I plugged the battery back in, the Steam Deck would then accept a charge.
My Deck wouldn't accept at charge or respond at all prior to disconnecting the battery.
Make sure to try this trick before completely removing your battery.
Thanks iFixit for making these guides.
Duane Degn - 回复